Wiring of Ring Video Doorbell Pro with Existing Chime in UK (Byron 776)

Glad you asked @MrMoo! To start, your initial thoughts on a local electrician is a great call. If the first attempt at installing and wiring did not yield the expected results, we do often recommend seeking an electrician for transformer installation, as this is considered high voltage.

In regards to the chime kit in use there, something powered by a low voltage of 8v, is likely not going to be rated for much higher than that. Proper functionality may not occur if adding it into the configuration with a 24v power supply or more. Check out our Chime Compatibility List to see if there is a better fitting chime for your setup.

Keep in mind, bypassing the chime kit and wiring directly to your transformer using the Pro Power Kit, and using one of our Chime devices, is another option. For any specific hardwired or hardware questions, these would be best answered by our support team, at 800-656-1918. I hope this helps! :slight_smile:

@Marley_Ring thanks for your reply!

In regards to the chime kit in use there, something powered by a low voltage of 8v, is likely not going to be rated for much higher than that. Proper functionality may not occur if adding it into the configuration with a 24v power supply or more.

I agree, though in this scenario do you or the Ring electricians have a preference as to the wiring (as per diagrams on initial post)? Or are they able to explain why the wiring in the manual seems to recommend leaving the existing transformer in place (there must be a reason, I just wanted to understand). I doubt I could explain over the phone.

Check out our Chime Compatibility List to see if there is a better fitting chime for your setup.

I thought I had seen the Byron 776 on the compatible list, but I must have been looking at a different list (maybe for another model). I’ll see if its easy to get hold of one which has been confirmed as compatible as that may be easier. EDIT: Looking at that page, those chimes all appear to be only available in the US or Canada, that list I don’t think is relevant in Europe / UK

Keep in mind, bypassing the chime kit and wiring directly to your transformer using the Pro Power Kit, and using one of our Chime devices, is another option.

And yes it is an option, but I didn’t want to rely solely on WiFi for hearing the doorbell, in case intermittent router issues stop us from hearing the door!

Good to see I am not the only one in the UK having troubles with an existing mechanical chime (same type, by the way).

My customer asked Ring support if he could use his existing mechanical chime and the answer was positive.

So I went and inspected the diagrams - they are utter nonsense. I tried different configurations for a couple of hours; the best result I could achieve is with putting the transformer, the Ring Pro, the Bypass kit and the chime (the solenoid) in series. When the button is pressed on the Ring Pro, there’s enough current in the circuit to drive the solenoid - so I get the “ding”. However, the high current lasts several seconds, so the “dong” arrives late and between the “ding” and the “dong”, of course, the chime solenoid buzzes.

I called the Tech Support, who first sent me a wiring diagram *without* the chime (no comment), then the usual diagram where the chime is completely bypassed using the bypass kit (hence the name…).

I haven’t received anything else, so far, from Tech Support - very disappointing. They clearly have no knowledge of the products, they just follow some scripts with standard answers.

My take is that, in the UK, you can’t reuse the existing chime, unless you play with some electronics - which I am doing at the moment.

It would be great to hear from Ring their official position on this.

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@dmax66 wrote:

It would be great to hear from Ring their official position on this.

Thanks for your reply, good to hear its not just me then! And yeah wish there was some clearer information from Ring about this…

The closest wiring diagram which I think should work is similar to as they supplied in their european manual, in this video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2SI9F0hJa0

If you look at 4:22 in that video you will see how they have connected it which appears to be using a Byron doorbell, then they use the pro power kit / cable (diagram from that video attached). Though do remember that you will also need to enable the internal chime in the Ring app, which I didn’t realise there was a setting for at first. (Its in Device Settings, General Settings, Doorbell Chime Type, set it to Mechanical)

I am going to try that when the replacement transformer arrives (which hopefully won’t overheat this time), although they shipped it a while back its likely held up in all the christmas holiday post!

And a quick note, when they say “bypass” I don’t think they mean to completely bypass it (as in not use the chime), they just have a poor choice on their terminology. As far as I can see when they say “bypass”, they just mean to bypass the original transformer, but still have it so the chime works.

Let me know how you get on, and what ends up working for you / your customer?

No way.

In both cases (chime with and without a transformer), what the video instructs to do is to fit the new 24V Ring transformer, and then bypass the existing chime, at the same time inserting the Pro-Power kit or Bypass kit in series with the Ring transformer and the doorbell button.

In fact, the video calls this step “Bypassing the doorbell”.

It’s a shame nobody from Ring Engineering/R&D is reading this thread. Ring Tech Support is useless - they know nothing of the technical details, they just recite the script that have to follow.

I can’t believe that such an expensive product doesn’t have a proper support. I will discourage my clients to buy one; there are similar products at a fraction of the price and considering the non-existent support from Ring, they are not at disadvantage when compare with Ring.

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In any wiring schema, if you have an existing transformer, it is bypassed. So, whether you remove it or not, it doesn’t make any difference.

Quick update now that new transformer arrived:

  1. Wiring as per my last post (from their video) which is essentially the diagram in their European manual = Ding and constant loud buzzing (From solenoid?), no dong, not good, so their recommendation = Doesn’t work

  2. Wiring as per the alternate diagram on my first post with the 8v transformer removed = Worked! So when Ring doorbell was pushed it caused the internal doorchime to actually chime, all appeared as I wanted it, BUT this caused a constant load on the Ring 24v transformer which caused it to hum, didn’t seem good, so I decided to not to risk leaving it like that.

I’ve not got any electronics expertise, only the very basics from school many years ago, so I’m definitely not going to experiment beyond what others have tried!

So for now I’ve just completely ignored the internal doorchime, and just wired the 24v transformer to the Ring doorbell pro directly. Annoying, I might see if I can find a 16v doorchime on their compatible list to use instead, as I still like the idea of having a physically attached doorchime in case of intermittent WiFi (but maybe that’s actually more trouble than it’s worth)

You are right that Ring should definitely provide more support or at least clarity around what should be possible with existing doorchimes! Ah well…

I am also very interested in figuring out how to wire a Ring Pro to a wired Chime (I don’t care what type/model it is at this point, I’ll take anything that works!).

Currently I have it wired directly to the 24v transformer and using the supplied Ring Chime that plugs into an electrical socket. It’s all fine until internet goes down, so a wired chime is still essential.

The issue is that all chimes seem to be 8-12v, while Ring Pro needs at least 16v… so the choice so far is to either underpower the Ring Pro, or fry a classic wired chime. I’ve looked here https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/209028546-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-Chime-Kit-Compatibility-List and a lot of the “Compatible” chimes seem to be 12v as well… so how is it compatible then? Are they saying that all these chimes can take 16-24v, despite being labelled to be 12v MAX by their manufacturers?

Some guides mention something called “Pro Power Kit v2”. That did not come in my Ring Pro UK package. I only got the 24v transformer and the ring chime. What is that kit anyway? Some sort of resistor to stop the wired 12v chimes from getting fried by the 24v transformer? I contacted support, asking them to send that thing to me, as I see no way of acquiring it, besides going to American ebay.

As someone mention before, Customer Support seems to just be reading their own FAQ/Script and hardly understanding anything. We really need some kind of Engineer / Electrician from Ring to join this thread and explain things.

Also in my opinion, the need fora wired classical chime could probably be eliminated by a simple firmware patch for ring chime… Currently it appears to be like this: Ring Doorbell > Router > Ring Server > Router > Ring Chime… Why? Why is internet involved here? Why can’t the chime just sit on the local connection? They should just patch it to go Ring Doorbell > Router > Ring Chime. Then it would still work when the internet is down and there would be no need for this thread… That, or make a Ring-branded wired 24v chime. Anyway, I am getting off the track here.

Does anyone knbow any wired 16-24v chimes? It’s really frustrating how Ring has a very vague support for wired chimes, but no clear instructions or support regarding them.

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We live in the UK have a Byron 776 chime/power unit and a RING Doorbell (wide silver model where you can’t remove battery).
We have the DingDong working but it won’t power, it’s still requires battery charging. ?
We we replaced our current chime box to the Byron 776 as it was recommended to be compatible for our model. Recharging the doorbell is going to get stale very quickly, tempted to just go back to old doorbell and Web cam combo. Getting fed up!

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I have managed to find This Buzzer here, which is 16-24v (The exact voltages specified for Ring Pro). It also states “Wired Wall Mounted Domestic Buzzer, suitable for Ring and Nest systems”. I will look some more, but if I do not find anything else, I will give this one a try.
It really feels like the compatibility list on the US Ring Website is totally pointless. What we actually need to look for is high-voltage chimes.

I’m just curious how would Ring Pro handle a buzzer. Does it suppot press & hold for continuous buzzing? Will it buzz for a second or will it buzz for at least 3 seconds? If I cannot find a high voltage ding dong, I will definitely give that buzzer a try.

Hi Aelther,

Tried that 24 VAC doorbell from DoorchimesUK on your Ring pro set yet? Did it work? 3 sec buz?


Hi, no I’ve not tried it yet, I’ve been waiting for Ring to send me the Pro Power Kit, which I have received recently. I will probably be importing an American mechanical Chime and a Polish transformer (It’s a real pain trying to make this American product fully compatible outside the US). I’ll update this thread if it works, along with all the links.

Hi folks

I have managed to get my Video Doorbell Pro to work with a mechanical chime.

It does require a little more work than most will feel comfortable with but it’s an option for those who want their mechanical chimes to work. Mine (and my neighbour’s) have been up and running for a while now and work great - no issues.

I created a little instructable:



Having read the method used by “dancase” I have worked out how to do a much simpler UK installation, using only the components that came with the Ring Pro and a compatible mechanical chime (Honeywell D117 “Ding dong”). There are two important things to remember during installation:

(1) As mentioned on the compatibility list, the mechanical chime must be AC and able to handle at least 18 VAC. (Some chimes that have an 8 VAC transformer can still comfortably handle 18 VAC.)

(2) The “Bypass” module, as “dancase” mentions is actually the “Pro Power Kit”. To use it in "Pro Power Kit " mode rather than “Bypass” mode you have to peel back the label on the other side of the module to show the hidden socket. Unlike “dancase”, I was quite happy to prise open the module and solder cables unto the socket terminals, after cutting the top off the socket to reveal the terminals - yes I butchered it.

Pictures from my installation are shown in the PDF attachment.

Note that I currently use output terminals (1) and (3) from the ring transformer. My voltmeter shows that this is 18VAC. The Ring Pro shows an RSSI of 52 from the “Device Health” using the Ring app. which is okay for my wireless connection. Using terminals (1) and (4) gets me a better RSSI (43) but seems unnecessary and is closer to the rated voltage of the chime. (8-16 VAC).

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Hi Lowel

Thanks for your clarifications but I need to correct you on a couple of bits:

  1. I’d be cautious about recommending people can use 18V with a chime that is designed to work at 8V. Of course these things are tested to beyond their normal operating voltages, but suggesting they can ‘comfortably handle’ 18V without any data to back it up, is potentially dangerous. The whole purpose of the arrangement I describe is to prevent this from happening.

  2. If you read my description in the Instructable about the PPK, you can see that I describe the Bypass kit and the PPK as one and the same thing - it seems you think I have described them as seperate devices. Additonally, I think you’ve misinterpreted the guidance I’ve given - as you can see in one of my pictures on the Instructable, I did actually prise open the PPK/Bypass kit to make sure this solution worked before I installed it. I simply said that I didn’t recommend this approach because it’s possible to cause damage to the unit this way, and you’re unlikely to get additonal help from Ring if you do, but I did leave it there as an option for people who feel comfortable to do that. A much better, much easier thing to do is to just call up Ring and ask for the wire to use in the PPK - they’ll send you a little package containing a new PPK and the wire to go with it - no butchering needed.

  3. I think you’ve confused a couple of topics in your last paragraph - While you can clearly ‘get away with’ using terminals (1) and (3) of the Ring transformer, there’s a chance you may find your doorbell cuts out (as I’ve describe in the Instructable), during heavy load (at night, using the infra-red, using Live View), so again, I wouldn’t recommend this.

But this is DEFINITELY not related to RSSI - RSSI is a measurement of the strength of received radio frequency (Received Signal Strength Indication), and this relates entirely to the doorbell’s connection to your wirless router. The terminals used on the Ring transformer have nothing to do with this.

I wouldn’t say that what you’ve described is MUCH simpler than adding in a relay. But I do think advising people that they can use 18V on a 8V chime is a bit misleading and not great advice.

As I said in my initial post, what I’ve described is probably a bit more work than most will feel comfortable with, but it’s an option.

Hope that helps.


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Quick additional note:

Using the compatibility list is a bit of a red herring.

As you can see on this page:


There are no compatible chimes in EU due to the difference in power ratings. The compatibility list you shared is for the US only.

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Hi Dan,

Thank your for your reply. The main reason why It thought it important to put out a simple set up that works works was because of some of the nonsense which is out there. I put it as a reply to your post in particular because your method lead me to find the method that I finally used. Your method is good but complicated, and I think unnecessarily so.

  1. Even though the instructions for the chime that I used is advertised as rated for 8V, when if you look closely at my picture showing the chime wiring, you can see that the solenoid actually has 8-16V AC written on it. So, yes 18 V is two volts over the manufacturer’s specifications, but not unduly so. I believe that even 24V AC would be okay for the hardware, which is why the chime is listed on the Ring site as being compatible. Such devices often have much higher tolerances than are advertised.

  2. I wrote ‘The “Bypass” module, as “dancase” mentions is actually the “Pro Power Kit”. To use it in "Pro Power Kit " mode…’ I cannot see how you got the impression that I am saying anything different from what you said. I am much too impatient to be writing to Ring and waiting weeks for them to send me the correct cable - especially when it is a simple fix if you, “Know which end of a soldering iron gets hot”. That is just me. Getting the cable with the correct socket would have been better, of course.

  3. The Received Signal Strength Indicator (RSSI) was the only issue that I had with the difference in voltage as I stated in my comment. The received signal strength is not only related to the transmitter power but also the receiver power. As with many systems, the supply to the device can be related to how much power it can use to amplify a wireless signal. This was a point that I tested directly by using the different voltages and checking the RSSI. The Door Cam was in the same place, so the only reason for a difference in the reported RSSI is the power supplied to the device, proving that the two are related. This was the first thing that came to my mind when I read how many people reported having issues connecting the Ring device to their WIFI: They were using too low a voltage, and hence the signal detection power is too low. My device has been working perfectly at 18V AC without any drop-outs at night, even when using Live View. (The motion detection caught a spider crawling up the wall one evening!) The Pro Manual states that the minimum voltage required is 16 V AC.

I must say that your method was a breath of fresh air compared to another “Working” method which had the solenoid connected in series with the Door Cam (without using the Pro Power Kit.) It works, but the solenoid is always energised (you can feel it vibrating) and this is likely to cause issues with solenoid/transformer burnout besides being dangerous.

Sincere regards,


p.s. My response to your reply has not been put into the community blog, so I have copied it here.

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Hi Aelther,

I’m very interested in how you got on with the buzzer installation (your Jan '20 post) as I’m facing the same situation.
Also, the link to the buzzer you found at doorchimes.co.uk now shows it no longer in their range so I can’t even look for an equivalent as can no longer see the original. Could you post the details of that buzzer if you still have them please?


Hi MrMoo I am now having exactly the same problem.
Did you finally sort this out please, and do you have a wiring diagram you can share?

I think there is business for a 24v door bell :joy:

Any tips appreciated please.

Hi please upload your pdf