We are doing renovations and I upgraded our battery powered Ring Doorbell 3 Plus to a hardwired Ring Video Pro 2. We did not have a mechanical doorbell chime (our original doorbell was a battery-powered button with a wireless connection to a remote chime) so I had the electrician install a generic doorbell transformer and wire the Ring to the transformer. After a few weeks i noticed that the transformer was very hot and made a terrible buzzing sound. That’s when I looked on line and saw that Ring Video Doorbell Pro 2s require a special transformer 16-24V and 30VA (my transformer was only 20VA)…so I ordered the Ring Transformer. Then the fun started.
A few days after I switched transformers my Ring doorbell stopped working…in the App, under Device Health, it tells me that Transformer Voltage is poor. I assumed that the transformer was bad so I ordered another one. In the meantime, I switched back to the 20VA transformer and the Ring started working again. I swapped out that transformer for a new 30VA ring transformer and same problem…after a couple of days the App tells me that Transformer voltage is poor and the Ring stops working.
I called Ring tech support…after probably 2 hours on the phone they decided that my Ring Video Doorbell Pro 2 was defective and they sent me another one. In the meantime I upgraded the doorbell wire to the recommended 18 gauge wire (previous wire was maybe 22 gauge) in case this was an issue.
I installed the new Ring Doorbell and connected it to a new Ring Transformer with the 18 gauge wire…and it worked perfectly for about 2 days. Today it stopped working again with the Device Health telling me…you guessed it…poor transformer voltage. I spent another 90 minutes on the phone with Ring Tech Support and they are going send me yet another new device…but the engineer in me tells me that there is some other problem
Why does it work ok with a supposedly out-of-spec 20VA transformer ? (If it wasn’t for the heat generated and the buzzing, I would just keep using the under-powered transformer)
Why does it work ok for a couple of days on Ring’s own in-spec 30VA transformer…before it stops working.
I see online that previous generations of Ring Doorbells required a 25W 50 Ohm resistor to be soldered in series with the transformer when you don’t have a pre-existing doorbell…but all of the Tech support people tell me this is not required with my Ring Video Doorbell Pro 2
Anyone with any ideas.?..I am about ready to abandon Ring and try Arlo or Nest
Hi @dasnaples. Although a Ring Pro 2 may work for a while with the wrong powered transformer, it will eventually fail. The Ring transformer is the correct transformer for this device. The Ring Pro 2 does not require a resistor. However, you will want to ensure you have made the correct selections in the Ring app, with regards to the Chime Kit type. I suggest following up with support on your open support ticket, since this has been an ongoing issue for you. We appreciate your patience while we work towards figuring out the root cause of this.
Hi, I have been going through nearly the same steps as described by the original message in this thread. My original Ring Doorbell Pro 2 worked for 18 months, hard wired to a 16V10VA transformer, using the mechanical chime with the Power Kit v3 properly connected. After 18 months it stopped working and the transformer was reporting 0V output. I replaced the transformer with a 16V 30VA transformer (from Home Depot), removed the Power Kit and bypassed the chime (connecting the front and transformer wires), and this time the transformer failed (went from producing 18V to 0V) within minutes of re-connecting the Ring Pro 2. After an hour on the phone answering redundant questions with Ring support they sent me a replacement Ring Pro 2. This time I installed a NuTone 16V 30VA model C907 transformer (it was supposed to have some sort of fuse) and it too failed after about an hour. I tested the old wiring for shorts, and at this point have installed new wiring anyway, and a new mechanical chime (matching the old one with a 16V 10VA transformer); so my doorBELL is working fine as it did pre-Ring. I am scared to add the Ring back into the picture, but I have a Ring transformer on hand to try.
I am posting in this thread because the original post states that they are having better luck with the out-of-spec transformer, which I too am experiencing. Also Tom’s response states that the Ring Pro 2 does require the resistor (I assume that is the Power Kit). There are plenty of threads out there in this community contradicting that for the Pro 2 model, but I am inclined to believe it is needed (and I mean even when bypassing the chime) as so far I have been unable to install without the Power Kit without burning up transformers. Can we get confirmation?
Hi @twroa. Apologies for any miscommunication, but a resistor is not needed with the Ring Pro 2. I have already corrected the typing error. A few older models of Ring Doorbells utilized a resistor in specific configurations, but that is not the case for every model of Doorbell in every configuration.
The Pro Power Kit should always be installed when installing a Doorbell Pro or Pro 2. With the Doorbell Pro, the Pro Power Kit has bypass ports that are used if the chime kit is being bypassed. However, the Doorbell Pro 2 comes with the Pro Power Kit V3, which does not have bypass ports. When bypassing your chime kit with the Doorbell Pro 2, you would need to twist the two wires together that are connected to the house chime terminals (front or back door and trans) to complete the circuit to your transformer.
If you’re experiencing persistent power related issues despite following the setup instructions, it would be best to follow up with our support team. We do not have access to any account or device information here, as the Ring Community is a public forum. This means we can’t see what might be happening on the back end, or perform more advanced diagnostic testing. Our support team can take a closer look and escalate an issue if needed.
@Caitlyn_Ring, thank you for the reply, but I am still confused as it still sounds like you are first saying not to use a resistor (i.e. the Pro Power Kit?), and then saying to use one.
To simplify the question, let’s focus only on the Video Doorbell Pro 2 that comes with the Pro Power Kit v3 which does not have bypass ports. When I twist the front and transformer wires together (so no longer connected the chime), the Pro Power Kit v3 is NOT supposed to still be connected in any way, correct?
Anyhow I have spoken to the support team, and appreciate their attempt to help and send me a new Video Doorbell Pro 2.
Subsequently, I have had some trial-and-error success. The replacement Video Doorbell Pro 2 initially burned up two additional 16V transformers (Home Depot and NuTone) when wired as described in the previous paragraph. For the record, it did not seem to damage the replacement Doorbell Pro 2, just the transformers. Approximately 60 feet of 18 gauge wire between the transformer and doorbell were tested to work and have no shorts. The 4th transformer is a 16V AC-plug style (with an input side over-temperature fuse, an output side current fuse, and an LED power indicator). It is on the same wire as the previous transformers and still working after 5 days. Observing this configuration, the transformer gets mildly warm (as the others did), and the back of the Ring Doorbell Pro 2 gets much hotter (depending on the test point) between 90 and 125 degrees. With this heat in mind, I did (for the first time) mount the doorbell on the angled mounting plate (providing gap between it and the door trim). So I’m not sure if the latest transformer is the “winning” change, the mounting plate, luck, or all of the above.
@twroa We only refer to the Pro Power Kit as the Pro Power Kit, not as a resistor. This is to prevent confusion, as the Pro Power Kit is not labeled as a resistor in the packaging or set up documentation. The average person, who is not very familiar with electrical wiring to begin with, would think they needed to go out and buy an additional part if we did not refer to it by the name in the documentation. The Pro Power Kit V3 does not have bypass ports, so it is not used in the installation if you are bypassing your chime kit.