How can I connect my Ring Pro 2 while bypassing my existing chime? The instructions for the Ring Pro 1 tell you to peel back the sticker and use the bypass mode of the PowerKit v2, but the RingPro 2 ships with the PowerKit v3 that does not have any bypass input.
The instructs for Ring’s other products suggest that bypassing the chime without a wire-wrapped resistor is a Bad Idea and a fire risk, but that’s exactly what Ring support told me to do when I called them.
I have a Pro 2 and use my existing mechanical chime so this suggestion may be of no use. Could you connect the v3 power kit as instructed and through the app, under Doorbell chime type, disable the in home doorbell and/or select the Digital Chime option under Doorbell type?
Hi neighbors! I looked into this and can confirm that the Pro Power Kit v3, which comes with the Ring Video Doorbell Pro 2, does not have a bypass option on it. However, you can still bypass your internal chime kit by connecting your Doorbell Pro 2 directly to a compatible low-voltage transformer (16-24 VAC, 50 or 60Hz, 40VA max) or by using the Ring Plug-In Adapter (2nd Gen). You would need to twist the two wires together that are connected to the house chime terminals (front or back door and trans) to complete the circuit to your transformer.
When bypassing the chime kit, you do not need to install the Pro Power Kit v3. In the Ring app, you will choose I don’t need it when asked Did you install the included Pro Power Kit? during the setup process.
As for the plug-in-adapter, set the adapter down near an outlet that is close to your door but do not plug it in yet. Run the cable to your Doorbell Pro 2 and use the included cable clips to secure it to your wall. Attach the wires to the terminals on the rear of your Doorbell Pro 2, then plug in the plug-in adapter. Your Ring Video Doorbell Pro 2 should light up.
I hope you find this information helpful. If you have any concerns with wiring your Doorbell Pro 2 directly to a low-voltage transformer, we recommend contacting a qualified electrician for assistance.
For anyone who is curious—there is lots of information on the ring website stating that for earlier models if bypassing the chime you must connect a resistor in series. This does not appear to be the case with the Pro 2. I tested this setup with and without a resistor (the one ring itself sells), and with the resistor, according to device settings the voltage was ‘poor’ and the power output ‘level 3’. (without the resistor, the voltage was ‘good’ and the power output ‘level 1’, which you need for the advanced features to work. This was with Ring’s own transformer, and regular 18 gauge doorbell wire. The documentation on Ring’s site really needs to be updated.
Is this still working well for you without resistor? They still don’t have any documentation on this and when I called Ring tech support, the guy seemed confused by what I was even asking and kept telling me to use the bypass mode and sent me instructions for the Pro, even though I emphasized that I have a Pro 2 and that the Power Kit that came with my Pro 2 doesn’t have the bypass mode. His eventually conclusion was that I should buy the spare parts pack and that’ll come with the Power Kit with bypass mode and to use that for the Pro 2, but I’m not confident in this information.
Hi @Dave76. You can find the instructions for bypassing your internal chime kit with the Video Doorbell Pro 2 in the marked solution.
You do not use the Pro Power Kit v3 and you also should not be using a resistor. To bypass your chime kit, your Doorbell Pro 2 will be wired directly to the transformer. The two wires connected to the chime terminals need to be twisted together to complete the doorbell circuit in this installation.
Then why did phone support tell me to order the spare parts pack to get the Power Kit v2 with bypass mode? Given the conflicting info from support and the lack of official documentation on this like the other devices have, I was hoping to get feedback from another customer like @Jdm2140 who has been running with it directly wired.
@Dave76 I apologize for any misinformation you may have received when contacting support. The information that I shared on bypassing your internal chime kit with the Doorbell Pro 2 is correct, and I do not recommend attempting to use the Pro Power Kit v2 in this case. It is not designed for use with the Doorbell Pro 2.
Similarly, I see that @Jdm2140 mentioned using a resistor with the Doorbell Pro 2. This is also not recommended, as the resistor is for the Video Doorbell - Gen 1 and the Video Doorbell 2. There are various different Doorbell models and they do not all have the same installation requirements.
This did NOT work . The transformer (a Ring transformer) emitted a horrible hum and the app reported low voltage and level 3. Now my Ring won’t connect to wifi and just keeps reporting “Setup did not complete. Check your internet connection” when I try to reconnect!
@Dave76 Did you twist together the two wires from your internal chime kit that were connected to the house chime terminals? They would have originally been connected to the front or back door and trans terminals on the chime kit, but will need to be twisted together instead in order to complete the circuit. If this isn’t done, it could cause insufficient power to your Doorbell Pro. If possible, please share a picture of the wiring. I can check it with my team to see if we can determine what would be causing a humming noise. Otherwise, you may need to consult a qualified electrician for more advanced wiring support.
@Caitlyn_Ring Yes, I did twist them together. The wiring for this isn’t particularly complicated so I’m pretty confident that it was correct and that a qualified electrician wouldn’t add much. I also did some voltage and continuity checks with my multimeter and all seemed good. I don’t have pictures of the wiring at that particularly time as I pretty quickly shut it off and rewired back in the old chime.
After hooking my old transformer and chime back up, I had to fully delete my doorbell from Ring and re-add it as a “new” device to get it working again. I might try again, deleting the Pro 2 first, then adding it back after hooking it back up direct wired to the Ring transformer.
I have a separate topic that discusses my issues that’s probably a better place for this that I will update with some more detail.
@Caitlyn_Ring Direct wiring as advised in this thread appears to have damaged my Pro 2 to the point that it no longer functions properly, even if I wire it back up to my original NuTone 16V/10VA transformer (which thankfully uses a thermal switch rather than thermal fuse) and chime – which it worked fine with before (other than occasionally having issues due to claims of low voltage). It also destroyed a Ring transformer and a 16V/30VA transformer from a different brand, presumably by blowing their thermal fuses.
In some cases, the Pro 2 will power cycle endlessly and, in some cases, I’ve been able to get it to connect, but it reports 6-8V, does not work reliably, and eventually reports 0V and disconnects (after it triggers the thermal switch or fuse in the transformer).
My wiring is 100% correct. I’ve used my multimeter to check the voltage at each step prior to connecting the Ring and can confirm that I’ve never seen anything but 16-18V at the door with any transformer I’ve tried.
I purchased the Ring plug-in adapter and get the same result where the Pro 2 connected and worked okay for maybe 30 minutes and then was dead and reporting “0V”. This eliminates my doorbell transformer and wiring completely from the picture and clearly incidates the Pro 2 has an issue.
Given that the Pro 2 is basically useless now, I have my original Pro hooked back up and it has been working great, again indicating that my wiring and transformer is fine.
Hi @Dave76. Happy to chime in for Caitlyn here. I suggest reaching out to our support team to take a closer look into your Ring Pro 2. Please give our support team a call at one of the numbers available here. If you are outside of the US, please visit here to see how to contact support.
Just wanted to add to this thread and confirm that Yes, if you are installing the Ring Pro 2 without an old doorbell chime (transistor only), you should NOT add a resistor. We upgraded from the original Ring Pro, which DID require the resistor to be added since we didn’t previously have a doorbell. But with the new Ring Pro 2, they must have designed it with a built-in resistor, because if you try to use it with an additional resistor, you will get the Low Power (Level 3) in the device health status and it will not function correctly. We removed the resistor, and it works fine now. Ring really needs to update their documentation to reflect this! @Caitlyn_Ring or @Tom_Ring can you pass this on to the team that they need to update their documentation? Thanks!!
For the Seinfeld fans out there, these pretzels are making me thirsty!
Brand new Pro 2. My mechanical doorbell no longer dings when you press the button after installing the Ring-branded transformer. It also randomly, occasionally, dings for no reason. I reinstalled the old transformer and it still doesn’t work. So, I decided to bypass it altogether and just use Chime. Then I ran into the exact issue in this thread.
I called support and they told me, as stated in this thread, that I can connect the doorbell directly to the transformer. How?! Support couldn’t tell me and there is no documentation for that. Do I use existing wires or is that a new set of wires? If I disconnect, and twist together the wires discussed here, what does that even mean?! Are those the wires at the very front that are labeled “trans” and (in my case) “rear” (see attached photo)? Just remove the power pack and twist those together? That will supply power to the doorbell and bypass the mechanical chime?
Finally, even after installing the Ring-branded transformer, the app still says low voltage. Any thoughts on that?
Hi @swinter. If you wish to bypass your internal chime kit, you need to remove the Pro Power Kit first. After that, you take the wires on your chime kit terminal that go to the transformer and the front door and twist them together instead in order to complete the circuit. Based on the picture you shared, you would remove the wires on the “trans” and “rear” terminals and twist those together. If you still see a low voltage on the Doorbell, please give our support team a call at one of the numbers available here. If you are outside of the US, please visit here to see how to contact support.