Responses (2)

• B

  Boone

  > @Arnold1 wrote: > Hi, I have two cameras set-up (have done for nearly a year now) the first is a battery spot light located at the front, the other is a mains flood light at the rear. The rear is able to connect to the WiFi (Yet it’s furthest away from router), yet the front will not. I’ve gone through the settings over and over yet the device will not connect. When trying to join the Ring WiFi it fails to show, subsequently the device keeps highlighting (unable to join). The battery ran out, I’ve recharged it and now I’m having no luck at all, please can you help? For nearly a year now . . . so I'm assuming that the front Spotlight Camera used to be able to connect? Or have you always had connection problems with the nearer Spotlight Camera? Ironically, one of my closest outdoor Stick-Up plug-in cameras was the one I had the most connection problems with. Even though it had a relatively strong (lower #) RSSI value. Wi-Fi issues are frequently the cause of most video problems (Live View, connecting issues, "Black Screen" only). Video requires a much higher Wi-Fi data-stream connection. A **strong** signal connection **doesn't necessarily mean** a **good** connection. In my case, even with a good RSSI signal strength number (displayed on "Device Health"), the issue was the Wi-Fi between the router and the camera was passing through a brick fireplace that has a metal chain grating in front of it. Since I couldn't reduce the distance between my mounted cam and router (to improve Wi-Fi reception), a Wi-Fi 'repeater' type-device enabled me to have the signal 'go around' the brick/metal grate. Any good 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi repeater, or the Ring Chime Pro bridge the signal interference issues. If your Spotlight was connected before and just recently developed this connection problem, it could be due to several issues, besides just the poor 2.4 GHz Wi-fi data-stream. - Corrupted Firmware was pushed automatically to your cam: Instead of completing just a standard "setup", do a Hard Factory Reset (press & hold the reset button for 30 seconds), which wipes out any downloaded Firmware (other than what it had from the factory). For Hard Factory Resets, it's best that you Remove your Camera from your phone app, prior to any Hard Reset (Main Menu \> Devices \> select your cam \> Device Settings (Gear Icon) \> General Settings \> Remove This Device. During the setup, do not click "Skip" when you get to the part when it is downloading new, fresh "Glitch-free" Firmware (could take 5 or 6 minutes). If possible, temporarily move either the cam or router closer, so a good clean firmware download can happen. - Maybe some NEW Wi-FI devices were recently introduced into your home and are also connected to your Router's 2.4 GHz frequency. Ring high-data-stream video does NOT do well competing for bandwidth. SInce my router is both Wi-Fi 2.4 GHZ and 5 Ghz, I moved as many of my other devices to only use the 5 GHz band, thereby reducing the competition for the Ring Cams. I reconfigured my dual-band router's into two separate SSID log-in names. I named the 2.4 GHz band to "2WireXXX" and named the 5 GHZ band "2WireXXX 5G" leaving both with the same password. Then my Wi-Fi devices that could use 5 GHz, I used "forget this network" and then logged on to only the "2WireXXX 5G." You might want to look into modifying your 2.4 GHz Channel Selection too. In Auto mode, routers often pick a main, commonly-used channels in Auto Mode (Ch 1, Ch 6, Ch 11). But accessing my router's configuration through my PC browser and using a downloaded App on my Window's PC (Wifi Analyzer and Scanner), I configure my router not to use its Auto Channel Selection Mode, and rather stay on the 2.4 GHz channel of my choice . There are 11 channels (1 thru 11) to choose from. In my case, I found that Ch 4, which is in between the typically used channels, gave me the strongest signal and lowest interference, according to the Analyzer App. This channel did reduce the Wi-Fi interference I was getting from my neighbor's routers. I also did noticed an improvement on my Ring cameras connection speed too. If you still have issues, re-post here (someone might have a solution), or try searching through the Ring On-line Support, such as: [https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/360023439472-Fixing-Black-Video-Errors-by-Adjusting-Your-...](https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/360023439472-Fixing-Black-Video-Errors-by-Adjusting-Your-Router) And if your issues continue, you should call Ring Support by telephone: [https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/360036196372-Get-in-Touch](https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/360036196372-Get-in-Touch) I hope you find this helpful :)

  1

  •

  08-08-2020 05:16:21

  •

  Reply
• C

  cgriffin

  Spent a VERY frustrating afternoon with a new wired motion light cam, replacing a 3 year old unit that suddenly "bricked" (lights wouldn't shut off, no response to resets, etc...). The new camera has a horrible picture and bad signal strength where the other (and one 3X as far from the router) did not. Seems to be defective on it's receive side. After all of the online "help", several resets, etc... I called the "help line". Couldn't understand this person AT ALL. She wanted me to move the wired camera (mounted under the roof peak) closer to the router. "oh you can't? Then more the router closer the the camera". They're both hard wired, I can't!! Signal strength tested by phone at the camera location was strong as is the signal strength at the other cam 3X further away. I got put on hold after she spouted some gibberish that I couldn't understand and I finally gave up and hung up. Ring customer service = -10 Horrible. Also, had to pay ANOTHER $30 to make the history work, even though I had paid $30 for a year on the "bricked" cam less than 60 days ago. No help here either. How do I get tech help in the USA with someone who can communicate in English?

  0

  •

  07-05-2021 01:45:52

  •

  Reply