So I’ve purchased and just received my Ring Intercom. When I checked compatibility, my specific model was not listed but another from the manufacturer was. So I decided to take a chance and preorder the Ring Intercom and hope that it worked, or would upgrade my handset to one that is supported (which I have now found out isn’t as straight forward as I thought…)
Now, in the app, my intercom manufacturer isn’t listed at all (GDX) despite being in the compatibility checker. I was thinking of trying the “generic 3+n” option (as my intercom has 4 wires), but I’m not sure if this will work as two of the wires are 0v and 12v, with the other two being mic and speaker:
Does anyone know if there would be any damage caused if I try to connect up with the 4 wire “A” harness as per the app?
Failing this, I would be interested in upgrading my handset, but I’m not sure if I could just swap out for a (Ring compatible) 4 wire 12v one or if it’s a little more complicated than this as my research so far has suggested?
Our current handset requires a call and then the handset to be lifted before the door entry button works (not sure if this is a feature of the handset or the intercom system itself, but our neighbour in the next block up has a different (older) handset that doesn’t require a call or to lift the handset before the door unlock button works).
I would strongly suggest you try to find the manual for the handset in order to understand if you can overcome the call-before-unlock issue. There may be a link you can add which will disable the call-before-unlock behaviour.
Out of an abundance of caution, randomly connecting 12V to the wrong terminal could cause issues… I know the guy from the company that maintains our intercom system wasn’t too enthused about having “normals” fiddling with the intercom wiring precisely because it could mean transformer power is accidentally shorted to the wrong terminal and result in an expensive repair to the entry panel.
Unfortunately we don’t know what the app suggested for the wiring for this handset as it’s not online (and I don’t plan on reinstalling my Ring Intercom just to find out!) - can you post the wiring screenshot from the app?
I’m not suggesting you go ahead and fiddle with your wiring, but based on the reverse engineering of the A harness in this post
then maybe the following wiring is close to what you need (these are the same 4 A-wires used on my Came/BPT Sytem 200 “AGT A200K” handset - compatible with the C200)
A3 → 1 Mic (Speech Out)
A2 → 2 Speaker (Speech In)
A1 → 3 0V
A6-> 4 12V DC
Thanks so much for the information! I managed to find the below partial manual, but not sure if this is much help…
While I’m certainly not a novice when it comes to electrical systems, intercoms are not something I have meddled in before so I thought it better to ask before I start fiddling. I certainly wouldn’t expect to short anything out!
I have the below screenshot from the Ring app, but bear in mind this is just using the “Generic 3+n” configuration, not for my specific Handset as this isn’t an option in the app (although the original schematic I posted shows what each terminal is for for my handset).
So from what I gather then, A6 should be the port that controls the lock activation for my specific “BUS type” setup? I’ll select “Generic - 3+n” and try the below as you suggested when I get home and report back:
When performing the test in the app, ringing the buzzer from the main intercom doesn’t register in the app.
After some trial and error, it seems that the below configuration allows the app to detect the buzzer being pressed, however “unlock door” doesnt unlock the door:
A3 → 1 Mic (Speech Out)
A2 → 2 Speaker (Speech In)
A1 → 3 0V
A6-> EXT SND+ or TR (EXT PRIV+ doesn’t register a buzz).
Interestingly, when in the above configuration (A6 → EXT SND+ or TR), when I press “unlock door” in the app, the handset “Privacy” button lights up green (as if it has received a call, not attempting to unlock the door).
I have not yet had the chance to see what happens as the buzzer is pressed, as I am home alone and the handset is on the 2nd floor, but I will get some help tomorrow and find out. My suspicion is that perhaps the handset needs to be lifted before door access is granted…
From what I have figured, the device simply tries to short two terminals for unlocking. If you can figure out which two terminals on your system allow unlock by shorting then maybe there is a way.
Thanks for the reply. I’m definitely interested in trying to figure this out. I have a multimeter, just lots of trial and error I suppose.
There is a product called “Nuki Opener”, similar to the Ring Intercom with some drawbacks (no option to talk to visitors for one I believe). I have found a post where someone is trying to figure this out too for me specific handset:
It looks like there may be some soldering involved potentially, which I will try as a last resort if I need to. Any thoughts?
Just a thought (if anyone has any input):- in the manual it states that a “slav.e handset” can be added, which just needs to be connected to the main handset (terminals 1, 2, 3, 4 & EXT PRIV+). The second handset needs to have LK1 and LK2 removed:
This makes me wonder if perhaps removing these in the main handset will make any difference? I tried this when A6 connected EXT PRIV+ with no luck, but what if I use a 4+n setup (as below in the app)?
Will this perhaps make the Ring Intercom work as a “slav.e” of sorts and be able to utilise the full functionality of the intercom? Or even leave the LK1 and LK2 in place and set up the Ring Intercom as a 5 wire setup somehow (connect A6-CALL and the newly added A5-UNLOCK to separate terminals)?
I’m trying to achieve exactly the same thing but haven’t had any luck as of yet. I have exactly the same handset and think there might be a way, it’s just a matter of working it out.
Did you have any luck with trying the slav.e work around?
Not yet, I’m trying to work around a 15 month old so getting time to play around with it isn’t easy right now!
So far I’ve concluded that having A6 connected to port 4 (12V) does not show a buzz in the app. Disconnecting it altogether also doesn’t show a buzz. However if I connect it to the EXT SND+ port, then buzzing the intercom shows in the app (I believe this was also the case in the TR port if I recall but can’t verify right now).
Answering this call, I can neither hear nor speak to the downstairs intercom (I hear a noise every second or so but just like interference)…
Right now I’m thinking maybe I need to set it up in 5 port mode (4+n) then cable A5 can send an unlock signal, but that is just a theory!
Hey Neighbors. For support regarding your Ring Intercom, we have this Help Center article here. If you have any question, feel free to reach out via Email or Phone. Thanks, Neighbors!
So, I have been able to test the below variations on the GDX 5 handset and unfortunately haven’t got far with any of them. I have found that it seems you can speak and somewhat hear IF the handset is picked up. But if the handset is not picked up you cannot answer the buzzer from the ring app. I have not yet been able to get the door to open either! I think the problem is, when the buzzer rings it requires you to lift the handset to activate the call. Even with the call activated when I click unlock nothing happens.
Generic 4+N
A3. 1
A2. 2
A1. 3
A5. 4
A6. Ext snd +
(App rings, can’t answer, can hear and talk If handset picked up but can’t open - privacy light stays green once unlocked in app. If you click unlock in app again then privacy light goes off)
Generic 4+N
A3. 1
A2. 2
A5. 3
A1. 4
A6. Ext snd +
(App rings automatically with no call and then stays in privacy mode with red light)
Generic 3+N
A3. 1
A2. 2
A1. 3
. 4
A6. Ext snd +
(App rings can only seem to talk and hear if someone picks up the intercom)
I will keep doing some testing if I have chance today, I am determined to get this to work if I can
EXT PRIV seems to allow a “slav.e handset” to mute calls from both handsets, I believe. I dont think it would be useful for the our requirements for the Ring Intercom.
I have tried those same combinations with the same results… have you tried removing the hangup switch in any of those confugurations you tried (its very easy to do, just use a flat screwdriver to pry one side out)? I tried in a couple of configs but it stopped the ring app seeing a “call”, but maybe it will work in a specific setup I haven’t tried?
I found a forum with some interesting information on the “Nuki” opener which may work for us here. It involves soldering, which I will try as a last resort:
As you can see, there are contact points which can be used to detect a “ring” and send an “unlock” signal if the hangup switch is removed. I don’t know if this will allow us to talk back and forth though as the Nuki opener doesn’t support voice I don’t believe.
That’s at least two of us, hoping we can get to the bottom of this and surely there’s got to be a way of Ring are suggesting it might be compatible later down the line.
Thanks for clarifying what the EXT PRIV terminal is. That probably wouldn’t help at all, even to detect the ringer. I haven’t removed the hang up switch partly because I think by doing so will mean that if anyone buzzes the intercom it will immediately answer rather than ring. I also don’t think that would change the ability to release the lock so we will still have that problem. I did come across the post in your last message and was thinking of potentially trying that too although again I don’t think that will entirely help our situation.
If I get chance later I might try testing it without the solder (will just use elec tape to attach wires to circuit) to see if that will at least release the lock. I will also test with the hang up switch disengaged (although you can just leave the handset off the hang up hook rather than removing the switch altogether) and see what happens then. I presume the call will automatically answer and will probably have the ability to speak and listen but still won’t be able to open the door. Let’s see
Really there are two things to overcome:
having the ability to answer the call without lifting the handset or having the hang up switch removed.
being able to send a signal to open the door, even if the call is unanswered but at the very least if answered.
I will come back with any findings once I get chance to test
Hi @MK246, sorry for my delayed reply, I’ve been out of the country for the last week.
If you do manage to get anywhere, even a step in the right direction, I would appreciate your findings.
I’m going to order a new soldering iron soon and see if I can find a more permanent solution, but I’d rather not solder and resolder to try different configurarions. I’m on the 2nd floor so it’s a bit of a pain going up and down the stairs trying and retrying so you might get further than I do!
@Garp very interesting, I wonder if this will help anyone with more knowlege of intercoms than me…
I have tried to contact PAC GDX themselves to ask for a full product manual, but they didnt even reply. I can’t find one anywhere online either, it seems as if they only provide them to registered installers and the council (who seem to use these systems a lot)?
Hi, I don’t suppose you made any progress with this? I have the same intercom, I had pre-ordered the ring intercom but ended up cancelling the order when I couldn’t find an alternate intercom to fit as all the compatible ones were 4+1 wires rather than the 4 that this one has.
Unfortunately I didn’t manage to get any further in my testing due to several things taking up my time. I hope someone else managed to get further with this with a possible workaround but if so they have not updated this thread with one!
I have subscribed to this thread in the hopes of updates. Came back to check again because the intercom is just £50 atm on amazon . Would love this device as the intercom is so quiet and I never hear it with my noise canceling earphones
. Would love this device as the intercom is so quiet and I never hear it with my noise canceling earphones