External power for retrofit kit

My retrofit alarm kit arrived yesterday. I was surprised that the only power option is battery - am I missing something? Since this is going to installed right next to the existing alarm cabinet, there is obviously power available. Is there not an option to tie the retrofit into the existing power?

Yeah, I thought the same thing when I ordered the kit. I’ll bet it’ll be a future upgrade. POE would be a nice option.

Bumping this 2 year old thread because I just installed this and thought the same thing…
What the heck Ring - the wired panel already has AC power + Backup battery. Why not utilize that. Should be so simple. Now I have to deal with replacing the 2 batteries whenever they die.

How long do those batteries last and what type are they? CR???

Hi there, neighbors! As described in the technical specifications for the Alarm Retrofit Kit on Ring.com, the method of power is via 2 X 3V Lithium 123 Batteries ( Included). @JetRocket11, as you asked about the battery use life, these should last 5 years with 100 events per day. “Events” defined as either open/close events or the 70 minute supervisory message sent from the device to the Base Station to report that the device is online.

As the Retrofit Kit is considered to be an advanced DIY solution, the best information will be found within our Community post about the Retrofit Kit.

My batteries on the retrofit lasted 6 months, . I am pretty sure I have less than 1000 events per day to justify such a consumption. 1/ Is there a way to easily quantify the number of events? 2/ Any plans for an external power supply to the retrofit while keeping the battery as a backup?


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After I converted my wired alarm system to Ring, I’ve been powering my (2) Retrofit Kits from (2) 12vdc to 3vdc converters that I got on Amazon. Each converts my old alarm system’s 12vdc red/black wires to 3vdc wires that I’ve connected to the Retrofit battery terminals. I’ve removed the lithium 123 batteries. The converter supplies up to 3A which is more than the (2) batteries which supplied .5A each. Be sure to turn off the old alarm’s power while doing the wiring. Connect with the right polarity (+ to + and - to -). Route the wires through the bottom where the sensor wires enter. After powering up the old alarm, test the Retrofit communication (get green light) and close the lid.

Was it just one 3v supply per retrofit module? I ask because the batteries are 3v each — I guess they are wired in parallel?

I just tested … the batteries are in parallel. So if you decide to hardwire the power, you can tie into the connectors for just one battery (and pull both out of the unit).

let me tell you, mine didnt last not even 3 months. 5 years seems like stretching it too much considering on shelf battery life is less than that

I have 5 motion sensors that were attached to one of the retrofit kits. These send open/close signals every time someone moves in a location where the motion sensors are located. This equals about 10,000 events per day in rooms with lots of activity, which blew through the CR123 batteries in 2 months.

@ths thanks very much for the information about the 12v to 3v step down converter. I was originally going to buy a 120v AC transformer to convert to the 3v DC but I really like the solution of the DC step down because I already have a 12v trickle charger attached to a 12v battery backup in my structured wire cabinet where I put the retrofit kits. I have two retrofits as well. The 12v power in my setup is needed to power my hardwired motion sensors.

The solution to replacing the batteries was really easy. Purchased this:

for less than the cost of one CR123 battery. Wired the red/black wires to my 12v battery. Wired the red/yellow wires to both retrofits. The power only has to go to one set of battery terminals as they are in parallel. The connection to the negative side was no problem because the spring on that side sticks out a lot. The positive battery terminal I connected by pulling on the spring on that side, stuck the wire under and release the spring back down, which held it in place. Route the wires out the bottom of the cover with the other wires, and you are good to go.

After I powered everything back up, I had to pull the cover back off and on to clear the tamper notice for the device in the app.

NOTE TO @Marley_Ring and/or Ring: I knew these retrofit kits were powered by batteries when I bought them and had planned on hard wiring the power to them at some point. Didn’t think it would have to be this soon. You should redesign the retrofit alarm kits with a 12v DC power input on them as an alternative or supplement to the batteries. All alarm systems I know of that one would be retro-fitting have a 12v power source already installed so it seems kind of dumb to not include this as an option. Thanks.


My battery last only 3 months

Hi, where didnyou connect it to get power feed?

Where does the power come from for the converter? I would like to eliminate the batteries also.