I live in the UK and purchased a Ring Doorbell Pro so I could use my existing wired door chime, a Byron 776 (very common model with mechanical chime), which has its own 8v transformer.
The installation plan I had was to simply use my local electrician to follow the guide as per the european manual here: https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/360021789811/ENG_Doorbell_Pro_MANUAL.pdf
The relevant page is the diagram I've attached to this post. Which means installation of the supplied 24v transformer, then wiring that into the internal chime (attaching to the terminals of the existing 8v transformer and bypassing), and using the supplied Pro Power Kit v2. However this didn't seem to work when configured this way.
It did turn out the Ring supplied transformer was actually faulty, supplying 32v instead of 24v, humming loudly and was severely overheating (shouldn't it have a thermal cutout?), so had to cut short the installation. Ring support were good and are sending out a replacement which will take a week before I can continue.
However, whilst I wait for that replacement to arrive, I wanted to ask if anyone else has experience in the UK in successfully installing using a similar internal chime (I like to have wired chimes just in case of WiFi issues). I have seen some posts / youtube videos where they took out the old 8v transformer completely, and wired differently, but not sure how much I trust them. Ring do list this chime as compatible, maybe they or someone here can suggest the best way forward:
a) Should we leave the existing 8v transformer in place and wire exactly as per the attached diagram from the Ring european manual?
b) Should we remove the old 8v transformer from the internal chime and wire similar to the random youtube video (which not sure how much I trust), diagram also attached of how I think this would look.
c) Buy a different internal doorchime which is more likely to be compatible?
I suppose the question is that I can't see why it would be recommended to leave the existing transformer in place? But then I'm not an electrician!
If anyone has used this specific model before, or if Ring are able to share the best approach for this model (which I presume they must have confirmed as they added it to their compatible list), then that would be great. I've seen similar questions about this model asked with either no good answer.
Many thanks! - MrMoo
Glad you asked @MrMoo! To start, your initial thoughts on a local electrician is a great call. If the first attempt at installing and wiring did not yield the expected results, we do often recommend seeking an electrician for transformer installation, as this is considered high voltage.
In regards to the chime kit in use there, something powered by a low voltage of 8v, is likely not going to be rated for much higher than that. Proper functionality may not occur if adding it into the configuration with a 24v power supply or more. Check out our Chime Compatibility List to see if there is a better fitting chime for your setup.
Keep in mind, bypassing the chime kit and wiring directly to your transformer using the Pro Power Kit, and using one of our Chime devices, is another option. For any specific hardwired or hardware questions, these would be best answered by our support team, at 800-656-1918. I hope this helps!
@Marley_Ring thanks for your reply!
In regards to the chime kit in use there, something powered by a low voltage of 8v, is likely not going to be rated for much higher than that. Proper functionality may not occur if adding it into the configuration with a 24v power supply or more.
I agree, though in this scenario do you or the Ring electricians have a preference as to the wiring (as per diagrams on initial post)? Or are they able to explain why the wiring in the manual seems to recommend leaving the existing transformer in place (there must be a reason, I just wanted to understand). I doubt I could explain over the phone.
Check out our Chime Compatibility List to see if there is a better fitting chime for your setup.
I thought I had seen the Byron 776 on the compatible list, but I must have been looking at a different list (maybe for another model).
I'll see if its easy to get hold of one which has been confirmed as compatible as that may be easier. EDIT: Looking at that page, those chimes all appear to be only available in the US or Canada, that list I don't think is relevant in Europe / UK
Keep in mind, bypassing the chime kit and wiring directly to your transformer using the Pro Power Kit, and using one of our Chime devices, is another option.
And yes it is an option, but I didn't want to rely solely on WiFi for hearing the doorbell, in case intermittent router issues stop us from hearing the door!
Good to see I am not the only one in the UK having troubles with an existing mechanical chime (same type, by the way).
My customer asked Ring support if he could use his existing mechanical chime and the answer was positive.
So I went and inspected the diagrams - they are utter nonsense. I tried different configurations for a couple of hours; the best result I could achieve is with putting the transformer, the Ring Pro, the Bypass kit and the chime (the solenoid) in series. When the button is pressed on the Ring Pro, there's enough current in the circuit to drive the solenoid - so I get the "ding". However, the high current lasts several seconds, so the "dong" arrives late and between the "ding" and the "dong", of course, the chime solenoid buzzes.
I called the Tech Support, who first sent me a wiring diagram *without* the chime (no comment), then the usual diagram where the chime is completely bypassed using the bypass kit (hence the name...).
I haven't received anything else, so far, from Tech Support - very disappointing. They clearly have no knowledge of the products, they just follow some scripts with standard answers.
My take is that, in the UK, you can't reuse the existing chime, unless you play with some electronics - which I am doing at the moment.
It would be great to hear from Ring their official position on this.
It would be great to hear from Ring their official position on this.
Thanks for your reply, good to hear its not just me then! And yeah wish there was some clearer information from Ring about this..
The closest wiring diagram which I think should work is similar to as they supplied in their european manual, in this video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2SI9F0hJa0
If you look at 4:22 in that video you will see how they have connected it which appears to be using a Byron doorbell, then they use the pro power kit / cable (diagram from that video attached). Though do remember that you will also need to enable the internal chime in the Ring app, which I didn't realise there was a setting for at first. (Its in Device Settings, General Settings, Doorbell Chime Type, set it to Mechanical)
I am going to try that when the replacement transformer arrives (which hopefully won't overheat this time), although they shipped it a while back its likely held up in all the christmas holiday post!
And a quick note, when they say "bypass" I don't think they mean to completely bypass it (as in not use the chime), they just have a poor choice on their terminology. As far as I can see when they say "bypass", they just mean to bypass the original transformer, but still have it so the chime works.
Let me know how you get on, and what ends up working for you / your customer?
In both cases (chime with and without a transformer), what the video instructs to do is to fit the new 24V Ring transformer, and then bypass the existing chime, at the same time inserting the Pro-Power kit or Bypass kit in series with the Ring transformer and the doorbell button.
In fact, the video calls this step "Bypassing the doorbell".
It's a shame nobody from Ring Engineering/R&D is reading this thread. Ring Tech Support is useless - they know nothing of the technical details, they just recite the script that have to follow.
I can't believe that such an expensive product doesn't have a proper support. I will discourage my clients to buy one; there are similar products at a fraction of the price and considering the non-existent support from Ring, they are not at disadvantage when compare with Ring.
In any wiring schema, if you have an existing transformer, it is bypassed. So, whether you remove it or not, it doesn't make any difference.
I am also very interested in figuring out how to wire a Ring Pro to a wired Chime (I don't care what type/model it is at this point, I'll take anything that works!).
Currently I have it wired directly to the 24v transformer and using the supplied Ring Chime that plugs into an electrical socket. It's all fine until internet goes down, so a wired chime is still essential.
The issue is that all chimes seem to be 8-12v, while Ring Pro needs at least 16v.... so the choice so far is to either underpower the Ring Pro, or fry a classic wired chime. I've looked here https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/209028546-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-Chime-Kit-Compatibility... and a lot of the "Compatible" chimes seem to be 12v as well... so how is it compatible then? Are they saying that all these chimes can take 16-24v, despite being labelled to be 12v MAX by their manufacturers?
Some guides mention something called "Pro Power Kit v2". That did not come in my Ring Pro UK package. I only got the 24v transformer and the ring chime. What is that kit anyway? Some sort of resistor to stop the wired 12v chimes from getting fried by the 24v transformer? I contacted support, asking them to send that thing to me, as I see no way of acquiring it, besides going to American ebay.
As someone mention before, Customer Support seems to just be reading their own FAQ/Script and hardly understanding anything. We really need some kind of Engineer / Electrician from Ring to join this thread and explain things.
Also in my opinion, the need fora wired classical chime could probably be eliminated by a simple firmware patch for ring chime... Currently it appears to be like this: Ring Doorbell > Router > Ring Server > Router > Ring Chime... Why? Why is internet involved here? Why can't the chime just sit on the local connection? They should just patch it to go Ring Doorbell > Router > Ring Chime. Then it would still work when the internet is down and there would be no need for this thread... That, or make a Ring-branded wired 24v chime. Anyway, I am getting off the track here.
Does anyone knbow any wired 16-24v chimes? It's really frustrating how Ring has a very vague support for wired chimes, but no clear instructions or support regarding them.