Video Doorbell Pro Voltage Dropping?

Thank you for your reply.

Unfortunately, I’ve done all that. Your support team does not acknowledge that there is a systemic voltage issue with the Doorbell Pro that your customers cannot fix. On my end, I have installed a new transformer (Ring’s own model to be exact) and have put the Pro Power Kit V2 into bypass mode. I have spent considerable expense and time having a professional electrician do all of this. just to ensure it was done right.

Even after all this, the voltage on my Doorbell Pro has steadily decreased from 4045mV to 3990mV in just the past few days since it last went offline. It goes offline at least once a week and then the voltage jumps back up after I reset it, even though I don’t touch the electrical circuitry. How is that even possible???

Again, this is a failure of the Ring Doorbell Pro model. Too many people have reported this to Ring and they’ve done absolutely nothing about it.

Stop blaming your customers and get to work fixing this issue, already. Thank you.

Just wondering where you voltage is now. Yesterday I disconnected the in home doorbell chime and in a few hrs my voltage went up 2 points but fell over night 3 points. I guess the Infra red light is what brings it down but we will see. In any event if my voltage becomes steady I can deal with not having the home chime disconnected but only time will tell.

Hey @Zandarr

I’m hanging in there at 3911 right now. I’m hoping Marley answers my above question if my AC adapter is actually sufficient considering although it’s delivering 24V AC it’s also only supplying 12 volt-amps and not 20.

I’ll post back what happens here either way, good or bad. The app still reports the voltage as Very Good. I’m not unplugging it/power cycling it–just waiting to see what happens once the power drops.

For further insight on proper voltage in any specific environment, we recommend contacting our support team. The flow of voltage is dependent on many things, including but not limited to, length of wire run, gauge of wires, existing chime kits, transformer output rating, resistance, and even in app settings. Our team will be able to investigate your power supply more indepth as well as the environment and other things that will help to not only answer your questions, but ensure you do not run into any unforeseen power issues in the future. Let us know how it goes!

Thank you @Marley_Ring

I’ve spoke with support. I posed the question “are my volt-amps sufficient even though they’re lower than what Ring recommends being my power supply output is 24V AC @ 12 volt-amps (500mA), where the Ring adapter is 24V AC @ 20 volt-amps (880mA).”

He really wasn’t entirely sure. Advised my power supply is sufficient to power the DB Pro, but may not be enough to sustain it. Advised I should wait and see, and if he mV drops to around 3850 I should probably purchase a different power supply as mine may not be enough.

My plan going forward is to wait and see if this thing hits a certain point where the mV shoots back up to 4000+ or dies on me. I really want to test this by not touching/resetting/rebooting the doorbell at all. If it dies, I’ll next likely purchase the Ring power adapter for the Pro, and again wait and see if it dies or not.

I’ll post my findings along the way.

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Wanted to post a short update for everyone…

I’ll start by saying my DB Pro continues to work perfect and has never missed a beat. To recap, my mV has consistently dropped by 5-10 mV per day from 4,000+ when I initially setup the Pro.

By this morning, my mV was down to around 3890ish or so. I don’t remember the exact number, but it was very high 3800s because it was 3902 last night.

(I’m VERY happy to report) by late after noon today, around 4pm, and without me doing a single thing, the mV climbed back up to 3968 by itself.

Throughout this entire time as I monitored this for the past week+, the Android app always reported the voltage as ‘Good’ while the Windows 10 app on my PC always reported ‘Very Good.’ The Pro never once went offline (that I’m aware of, at least) and I’ve fortunately not had any problems with it whatsoever.

Still not entirely convinced my power supply is sufficient, I plan to continue to monitor this at least until the voltage drops one more time to ensure it re-stabilizes. I do have a 2nd power supply in mind I may try that will supply 24V AC @ 40 volt-amps rather than my current 12 volt-amps if it becomes an issue.

I’ll update again at some point for better or worse, and best of luck to those of you either having problems, or worrying you will have a problem.

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So it has been about 2 weeks since your last post. How are your mV numbers now?

I’m happy to report the doorbell hasn’t missed a beat. The voltage seems to consistently drop to somewhere between the very high 3890’s or low 3900’s, then auto bump back up to somewhere in the 4,000mV range, sometimes up to almost 4100mV.

I will say, the voltage seems to be dropping much faster than it initially did within the first two weeks I had it. Nothing’s really changed, but I find myself checking it less and less. I’m still using the same power supply/AC adapter too. Voltage will drop, then go back up on it’s own, but the Pro continues to work without any problems regardless of where the mV is at.

How’s yours doing Zandarr?

My voltage dropped to 3898 yesterday and then briefly jumped to 4005. It’s down to 3995 today. The Doorbell Pro stayed on. I think using the bypass on the Pro Power Kit V2 helped. Thankfully, I have the Chime Pro since my existing doorbell is now bypassed. I wish I knew why this cycle occurs. I can’t seem to get any explanation for it from Ring. Some surmise it has to do with the internal battery in the Ring Pro, but who knows.

Thank you for answering. My mV is doing the same as yours. The highest it has been is aroung 4048 and the lowest has been around 3089 and then it bumps back up. I guess that is how they are supposed to act. I was concerned because a neighbor of mine says that his mV hovers around 4015 give or take a plus or minus 5.

Dsj I have searched all over the internet to find that answer. Why does it cycle especially if there is nothing going on with the doorbell. I am trying to ween myself from monitoring the mV level but I can’t. There has to be someone out there that knows why this cycle takes place.

I have had the same issue for over a year. Every time I talk to a rep I get no where. I have changed transformers, moved wifi mesh system around and still nothing. Tech support acts like it is something new.

I’ve been having the same problem for the past year. Tried everything. None of my other camera and door bells have this problem. For testing I put a Door Bell 2 right beside the Pro and it never has a problem, so it’s not wifi. My last attempt was installing yet another transformer, this time a 24V 40A one. Same thing old story. Good for a week or two and then the Ring Pro won’t even power on until I power cycle the whole system.

It’s pretty disappointing and I’ve stopped recommending Ring to anyone because of these persistent problems that Ring has no real solutions for. It actually worked fine the first year I owned it. I just have to accept that just like the Ring Spotlight Cam, these things don’t last much longer than 1 year.

I believe from information found on other posts/forums, that the voltage which is being reported is that for the small internal LiPo battery. My basic understanding is that these batteries are nominally 3.7v devices but their voltage varies with their degree of their charge. Unfortuneatly voltage is not proportional to the level of charge however a fully charged cell at rest is nominally 4.2V, 50% charge is 3.85V and the voltage at 20% charge is approx 3.75V. But these voltages are effected by things such as whether they are being charged or discharged, temperature and cell aging. They are not ideal devices for long term storage or being float charged such as in this application. They are better at cyclic use where they are discharged and recharged. Also not best at holding 100% charge as the time they spend between 80% and 100% charged significant y reduces their service life. They are good as delivering high current for short period though which is presumably why they have been chosen.

Reading these posts, it appears that most peoples LiPos are being held at the right sort of charge, ie neither fully charged or discharged. I would not be worried about small flutuations which are probably more to do with something like outside temperature. But some ( less than 3.9V?) are really not holding enough charge to cope with high draw events, especially if cold, which is perhaps causing the Pro’s to drop their voltage below an acceptable limit and hence reset themselves?

I’ve been having a similar problem for about a month now. What sort of wall is your Ring mounted on? Mine is mounted on a stucco wall with metal lath. Not sure if it makes any difference, but I wonder if it could have any effect.

So I’ve installed the RDP as of Wednesday May 6th 2020, I got it setup and it was working great for about 6 hours, then all of a sudden I got a flashing blue light at the top. So after some sluthing around on the interwebs and reddit I figured it was my transformer. I already had a 16v 30vA transformer installed but it was original to the house in 2002 so I figured I’ll replace it easy enough with another from Home Depot. Quick trip there and back and in about 10 minutes it was wired up. Got out the trusty volt meter and checked directly from the transformer and I’m getting 17.68 ish volts.<br><br>I wire up the doorbell wires and go out front, check the voltage to the RDP and 17.59 so all good, still no dice and I have a blue light. Fed up I go to bed and wake up the next morning to a notification of movement at my door and low and behold it’s powered up with a white ring and all is well.<br><br>Except one thing, in the devices health check settings, it shows poor voltage and when I tap it to see the amount it’s 0mV :-/ but yet the darn thing is on, connected, sending notifications, allowing live view and everything else with no issues… I continue to check every so often and still 0mV so I dunno. My electrical engineer father in law wants to take it apart and prove it’s faulty lol but I’m holding off on that for warranty sake. I’m gonna let it run for awhile and keep tabs and if nothing else make Ring warranty it and send me a new one cause something is amiss when it’s working but saying it’s got no power. <br><br>I might have been born in a barn and at night but it wasn’t last night… fix yo sh!z ring<br><br>Thanks :slight_smile:

I finally gave. I’ve tried doing everything. Replacing the transformer, replacing the out bell bypass module with a new one. Nothing worked.

I just concluded that my old Door Bell Pro was broken and that the Ring extended warranty is just worthless. Despite this I put in a brand new Pro, in the exact same place with the exact same transformer, wiring etc… nit a single problem for a week. The old one hasn’t lasted for more than 2 days before I had to power cycle it.

it really makes me think hard abkut my future with Ring. The. Yearly plan was supposed to give you extended warranty support but good luck ever getting anything out of it. I would open tickets and there would never be a response or useless info that would never fix it. I never get to “maybe it’s broken, let me send you a new one”. I have a Spotlight cam that was broken and never resolve this wya.

I am going stop recommending Ring an dlook for something else. Keep using what i hvae until it breaks again… I know it will.

24v. 30va. Works best

I have had the same experience. Support grah it until it goes out of warranty then they say take 30%discount code which is practically worthless because you can pick it cheaper.

I just received a new power kit today and reinstalled it and it says good but that’s only temporary. It goes back down to 15 V and then says poor again