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Ring Pro cracked button

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New Neighbor II

Re: Ring Pro cracked button


@portal7 wrote:
 I’ve already proactively ordered 3D printed replacement buttons. When I run out of options in a year or two, I guess I’ll be attempting to replace a button. Hopefully there will be a YouTube video or an instructible posted before that happens.

Where did you order the 3D printed parts from?

 

UPDATE: I see you answered this in another post. www.makexyz.com

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New Neighbor

Re: Ring Pro cracked button

CodeMonkey,

I would buy a button from you if are willing? I don't have access to a 3D printer. 

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New Neighbor

Re: Ring Pro cracked button

I bought them from someone local with a 3D printer that I found on makexyz.com. The design came from CodeMonkey. I paid $10 plus a $2 transaction fee for two buttons. ($6 per button)

The printouts took about an hour and they were ready the same day. In fact, they were ready before I was. I haven’t even picked them up yet. I’ll get them today.
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New Neighbor

Re: Ring Pro cracked button

I don’t have access to a 3D printer either. You could probably find someone local with a 3D printer, order the print, pick it up and install it before I could get it to you. Since it’s such a small part, I don’t think it takes much to 3D print. CodeMonkey would print one for you, if you asked him nicely and paid for the shipping.
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New Neighbor

Re: Ring Pro cracked button

Lots of options I'm not familiar with.....

Process : FDM - SLA - SLS

Which Resin to use?

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New Neighbor

Re: Ring Pro cracked button

That’s a great question. I don’t have the best answer. Black?
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New Neighbor

Re: Ring Pro cracked button

Thanks!

I will wait for CodeMonkey to respond, I would hate to order the wrong thing.

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New Neighbor

Re: Ring Pro cracked button

I don’t think you could order the wrong thing. You have to consider aesthetics, physical durability against fingernails, angry trick or treaters, upset couriers, sustainability withIn your climate, fit and finish. Another words, one button might work better on a wigwam versus another button on an igloo.
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New Neighbor

Re: Ring Pro cracked button

Sorry for the delayed response.  You could actually order some options that would not be advisable.  Resin is great and super accurate.  I can print in resin too, however, when over exposed to UV (eg. outdoors) without a layer of paint protecting it they will eventually shatter.  Likely worse than the original button.  I can print resin and paint it but wouldn't want the paint to interfere with the tolerances needed to function.  I used FDM with PETG for my print.  PETG, ABS, and ASA all have properties that lend themselves well to exposure to UV and heat while still retaining good tensile strength.  While resin is smoother and doesn't look 3D printed, I'd have to adjust some tolerances and test it painted before I'd recommend that route.  In the meantime, I hold to my offer that I'm happy to print some and send them if S&H is covered.  You can reach me @ sorren4@hotmail.com for these.  Availability depends on when my printers are avaiable but they are quick prints so the turn around time is usually short.  Most US domestic shipping and handling starts at $4 depending on if I have packaging handy or not (usually do thanks to my Amazon "habit").  Otherwise, services mentioned in other posts are great resources too.

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New Neighbor

Re: Ring Pro cracked button

With FDM, I'd recommend using PETG, ABS, or ASA since they all tend to resist UV and can handle heat while maintaining tensile strength.  Keep in mind that my button is designed a bit better than the Ring buttons that broke so it will already be a bit stronger by design.  However, PLA doesn't stand up quite as well to UV and can get brittle and crack.  

 

SLS should be really great for this application as it can be printed with no supports and cleanup should be really easy.  However, I'm not familiar with its UV resistance.  Usually a very strong part though.

 

SLA is VERY detailed and one of the more accurate options.  However, since it's created from resin that's exposed to UV light, the more exposure the more brittle most resins tend to become.  This often ends in shatering after too much exposure.  This can be curbed by painting, but painting adds complications to the design if it flakes off into the rest of the doorbell mechanism, wears off over time, and/or negatively adjusts the tolerances of the design since I didn't design it for paint and tolerances are tight already.  You could also try and go with a tough or UV resistant resin but I can't vouch for the longevity of an unpainted resin print outside for the life of the part.

 

Overall, I'd recommend the first option with FDM or maybe SLS.  Even better, some services offer milled metal parts.  I haven't tried one of these yet but if I had a CNC mill, I'd definitely love to go for an option like that.

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