I’ve already proactively ordered 3D printed replacement buttons. When I run out of options in a year or two, I guess I’ll be attempting to replace a button. Hopefully there will be a YouTube video or an instructible posted before that happens.
Where did you order the 3D printed parts from?
UPDATE: I see you answered this in another post. www.makexyz.com
Sorry for the delayed response. You could actually order some options that would not be advisable. Resin is great and super accurate. I can print in resin too, however, when over exposed to UV (eg. outdoors) without a layer of paint protecting it they will eventually shatter. Likely worse than the original button. I can print resin and paint it but wouldn't want the paint to interfere with the tolerances needed to function. I used FDM with PETG for my print. PETG, ABS, and ASA all have properties that lend themselves well to exposure to UV and heat while still retaining good tensile strength. While resin is smoother and doesn't look 3D printed, I'd have to adjust some tolerances and test it painted before I'd recommend that route. In the meantime, I hold to my offer that I'm happy to print some and send them if S&H is covered. You can reach me @ email@example.com for these. Availability depends on when my printers are avaiable but they are quick prints so the turn around time is usually short. Most US domestic shipping and handling starts at $4 depending on if I have packaging handy or not (usually do thanks to my Amazon "habit"). Otherwise, services mentioned in other posts are great resources too.
With FDM, I'd recommend using PETG, ABS, or ASA since they all tend to resist UV and can handle heat while maintaining tensile strength. Keep in mind that my button is designed a bit better than the Ring buttons that broke so it will already be a bit stronger by design. However, PLA doesn't stand up quite as well to UV and can get brittle and crack.
SLS should be really great for this application as it can be printed with no supports and cleanup should be really easy. However, I'm not familiar with its UV resistance. Usually a very strong part though.
SLA is VERY detailed and one of the more accurate options. However, since it's created from resin that's exposed to UV light, the more exposure the more brittle most resins tend to become. This often ends in shatering after too much exposure. This can be curbed by painting, but painting adds complications to the design if it flakes off into the rest of the doorbell mechanism, wears off over time, and/or negatively adjusts the tolerances of the design since I didn't design it for paint and tolerances are tight already. You could also try and go with a tough or UV resistant resin but I can't vouch for the longevity of an unpainted resin print outside for the life of the part.
Overall, I'd recommend the first option with FDM or maybe SLS. Even better, some services offer milled metal parts. I haven't tried one of these yet but if I had a CNC mill, I'd definitely love to go for an option like that.