My voltage dropped to 3898 yesterday and then briefly jumped to 4005. It’s down to 3995 today. The Doorbell Pro stayed on. I think using the bypass on the Pro Power Kit V2 helped. Thankfully, I have the Chime Pro since my existing doorbell is now bypassed. I wish I knew why this cycle occurs. I can’t seem to get any explanation for it from Ring. Some surmise it has to do with the internal battery in the Ring Pro, but who knows.
Thank you for answering. My mV is doing the same as yours. The highest it has been is aroung 4048 and the lowest has been around 3089 and then it bumps back up. I guess that is how they are supposed to act. I was concerned because a neighbor of mine says that his mV hovers around 4015 give or take a plus or minus 5.
Dsj I have searched all over the internet to find that answer. Why does it cycle especially if there is nothing going on with the doorbell. I am trying to ween myself from monitoring the mV level but I can’t. There has to be someone out there that knows why this cycle takes place.
I have had the same issue for over a year. Every time I talk to a rep I get no where. I have changed transformers, moved wifi mesh system around and still nothing. Tech support acts like it is something new.
I’ve been having the same problem for the past year. Tried everything. None of my other camera and door bells have this problem. For testing I put a Door Bell 2 right beside the Pro and it never has a problem, so it’s not wifi. My last attempt was installing yet another transformer, this time a 24V 40A one. Same thing old story. Good for a week or two and then the Ring Pro won’t even power on until I power cycle the whole system.
It’s pretty disappointing and I’ve stopped recommending Ring to anyone because of these persistent problems that Ring has no real solutions for. It actually worked fine the first year I owned it. I just have to accept that just like the Ring Spotlight Cam, these things don’t last much longer than 1 year.
I believe from information found on other posts/forums, that the voltage which is being reported is that for the small internal LiPo battery. My basic understanding is that these batteries are nominally 3.7v devices but their voltage varies with their degree of their charge. Unfortuneatly voltage is not proportional to the level of charge however a fully charged cell at rest is nominally 4.2V, 50% charge is 3.85V and the voltage at 20% charge is approx 3.75V. But these voltages are effected by things such as whether they are being charged or discharged, temperature and cell aging. They are not ideal devices for long term storage or being float charged such as in this application. They are better at cyclic use where they are discharged and recharged. Also not best at holding 100% charge as the time they spend between 80% and 100% charged significant y reduces their service life. They are good as delivering high current for short period though which is presumably why they have been chosen.
Reading these posts, it appears that most peoples LiPos are being held at the right sort of charge, ie neither fully charged or discharged. I would not be worried about small flutuations which are probably more to do with something like outside temperature. But some ( less than 3.9V?) are really not holding enough charge to cope with high draw events, especially if cold, which is perhaps causing the Pro’s to drop their voltage below an acceptable limit and hence reset themselves?
I’ve been having a similar problem for about a month now. What sort of wall is your Ring mounted on? Mine is mounted on a stucco wall with metal lath. Not sure if it makes any difference, but I wonder if it could have any effect.
So I’ve installed the RDP as of Wednesday May 6th 2020, I got it setup and it was working great for about 6 hours, then all of a sudden I got a flashing blue light at the top. So after some sluthing around on the interwebs and reddit I figured it was my transformer. I already had a 16v 30vA transformer installed but it was original to the house in 2002 so I figured I’ll replace it easy enough with another from Home Depot. Quick trip there and back and in about 10 minutes it was wired up. Got out the trusty volt meter and checked directly from the transformer and I’m getting 17.68 ish volts.<br><br>I wire up the doorbell wires and go out front, check the voltage to the RDP and 17.59 so all good, still no dice and I have a blue light. Fed up I go to bed and wake up the next morning to a notification of movement at my door and low and behold it’s powered up with a white ring and all is well.<br><br>Except one thing, in the devices health check settings, it shows poor voltage and when I tap it to see the amount it’s 0mV :-/ but yet the darn thing is on, connected, sending notifications, allowing live view and everything else with no issues… I continue to check every so often and still 0mV so I dunno. My electrical engineer father in law wants to take it apart and prove it’s faulty lol but I’m holding off on that for warranty sake. I’m gonna let it run for awhile and keep tabs and if nothing else make Ring warranty it and send me a new one cause something is amiss when it’s working but saying it’s got no power. <br><br>I might have been born in a barn and at night but it wasn’t last night… fix yo sh!z ring<br><br>Thanks 
I finally gave. I’ve tried doing everything. Replacing the transformer, replacing the out bell bypass module with a new one. Nothing worked.
I just concluded that my old Door Bell Pro was broken and that the Ring extended warranty is just worthless. Despite this I put in a brand new Pro, in the exact same place with the exact same transformer, wiring etc… nit a single problem for a week. The old one hasn’t lasted for more than 2 days before I had to power cycle it.
it really makes me think hard abkut my future with Ring. The. Yearly plan was supposed to give you extended warranty support but good luck ever getting anything out of it. I would open tickets and there would never be a response or useless info that would never fix it. I never get to “maybe it’s broken, let me send you a new one”. I have a Spotlight cam that was broken and never resolve this wya.
I am going stop recommending Ring an dlook for something else. Keep using what i hvae until it breaks again… I know it will.
24v. 30va. Works best
I have had the same experience. Support grah it until it goes out of warranty then they say take 30%discount code which is practically worthless because you can pick it cheaper.
