Floodlight Cam Wiring Doesn't Match Manual

Hi,

I have just purchased a black floodlight cam (UK) and looking at the wiring it doesn’t match the pictures in the manual. It’s best described with a photo so see the attached photo. You can see that the blue neutral is wired into the connection block as expected, but the brown live wire joins a thin red wire that comes from the camera and a think black wire goes to the live terminal on the connection block. This doesn’t match the manual which shows the brown live wire going directly into the connection block.

Is this ok? It seems odd that the mains power will be going directly into the camera - I would have expected it to go into a transformer first and then lower voltage DC being provided to the camera over the thinner wires.

Thanks

Chris

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Thank you for the picture example, @chrisjones199. It looks like you are doing this correctly! According to the Floodlight Cam installation manual, you will need to attach the live and neutral wires from your wall to the live and neutral wires on your Floodlight Cam. Secure them using the small end of the provided screwdriver bit.

If you are unsure about the wiring used or gauge of wiring being adequate for power the Floodlight Cam as is, we highly recommend consulting with a licensed electrician for wiring installation. Our help center article also provides video instructions on installation. I hope this helps! :slight_smile:

Did this work? My father is having some major issues getting his camera set up and looks like the wiring is the same as yours . When he connects it as your wiring shows we can’t get the lights to work. When he connects the live wire as shown in the manual the lights come on but won’t go off.

Hi Chris

Did you get it working?

I presume the blue wire from the wall goes into the block to connect to the blue and small white wires from the unit.

The Brown wire from the wall goes into the block to connect to the small black wire (Not a brown one as in the outdated manual and ring guide video)

Is this correct?

Many thanks

This does not answer Chris’ question as you have not acknowledged the fact the brown live wire from the camera does not go to the connector block like the picture. There are 3 or 4 of us now that have cameras with the same fault. I can’t beileive we should be connecting a 240v live wire (brown) to that tiny thin black wire. The manual makes sense but the cameras don’t match the manual

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Hi!

I have the same question and the answer is not sufficient. Please update with wiring instruction that match our hardware version.

Many thanks

Best regards

Fredrik

Hey neighbours. If the links provided earlier didn’t help any, please contact our support team for further guidance. Please read our response to COVID-19 here to see how to contact support. We’re taking additional steps to protect our team and help reduce the spread of COVID-19. This has resulted in longer than normal wait times.

I’ve just spent 45 minutes on a call with Ring support, and to say it was a complete waste of time is an understatement. The question needs to be answered properly, and the instructions need to be properly addressed!

So. To put it as simply as possible, so the people at ring can follow:

There is a terminal block inside the camera. It has (on the camera side) a blue and thin white wire connected to the N side. On the L side of the terminal block, there’s a thin black wire. In the instructions, the blue wire and thin white wires are connected to the N side (all good so far), and in the instructions, the brown wire is connected to the L side of the block. There is no mention of the thin red, or thin black. The thin red wire is joined to the brown wire and capped as per the images others have posted.

People need to know if the brown and thin red should be connected to the L side of the terminal block, along with the black wire.

Now, none of this has anything to do with the supply coming out of the wall, so telling us to consult a qualified electrician is nonsense. Is is a product issue, and potentially a safety one at that. Not even a qualified electrician would know where the red and black thin wires are supposed to be connected to unless a) they work for Ring or b) practice magic and their crystal ball is wired up correctly.

I for one will be taking it further as Ring are selling a product without adequate instructions which at a guess likely contravene both Part-P and dry likely BS60335. I’m about to drop a line to the HSE as I personally thing the product shouldn’t be on sale if there’s any doubt about the safety of its internal wiring.

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Haha, Yes Karl I spent a very pointless phone call to Ring, considering they dont actually have very many products their technical support dont understand them very well! I have sent mine back to Amazon for a refund and have ordered another from Ring Directly. if this one is still faulty then I’ll be going elsewhere and replacing all products. lost total faith in them now. The level of technical support was embarrasing.

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Have you managed to get a solution. Just received my floodlight camera and noticed this thin black wire in the camera side live slot on the block connector. I straight away thought this does not look right and looked on installation videos which shows a brown wire going to the live on camera side. Ring need to address this issue.

Hi, so Ring told me to return my Floodlight Cam from where it was purchased (Amazon) which was nice and easy and no fuss. Got the £249 refund straight away.

I then bought one from Ring Website on a Black Friday deal @ £180 and it arrived today with correct wiring.

WIN WIN!

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Hi jonwright192, when you got your replacement were the wires connected in a way that made more sense? My Floodlight camera that came direct from Ring has the same wiring issue described on this thread. I’m not sure if I should return mine or if there’s a way to wire it correctly.

Actually, now upon closer inspection, it is still the same as the old wiring but the thin black cable just has a brown sleeving over it (photo attached). Everything else is the same. So maybe we’re actually all worrying about nothing? I’m installing mine later today so will keep you posted

Thanks for the info. Another thread in the Ring forum also mentioned a sleeve over the thin black wire so it does seem like this is the intended wiring.

Hi all.

Got my Floodlight cam off Amazon in Black Friday sale. Just wanted to let folk know that the wiring is indeed correct (although I agree it looks wrong). For clarity…

From cam:
Block N: Thick blue & thin white
Block L: Thin Black
Insulated Connector: Thick brown & thin red

From supply:
Block N: Thick blue
Block L: Thick brown
Earth screw: Thick green/yellow

…this wiring allows for the lights to come on and go off as expected.

Has there been any update from Ring on this?

I have just received my order from Amazon and have the same conerns regarding the wiring. It seems strange to have the Live wire pairing to such a flimsy cable.

Yeah I know but it’s fine. I did mine this weekend and it’s all good

Mine works also. I guess the current from the mains must be pretty low even with the floodlights on. Thanks for the info everyone.

I had the same issue. It drove me mad. First I took matters in to my own hands and put the camera L (brown) in the connector with the black and red, and the camera N (Blue) in the connector with the white wire. And I ended up with a camera that worked but the lights were on permanently.

I called and they sent me a new one which looked like the issue everyone else called out. The camera black in the L connector alone.

I followed Jonwright192 advice on here and went ahead and just did it. It works exactly how its meant to be.

So to summarise:
The camera Black wire should go in to the L connector.

The camera blue and white wire should go in to the N connector.

The camera black and red should remain in a plastic cap together not being used.

The housing Brown (Live wire) goes in to the L connector matching the camera black wire.

The housing Blue (Neutral) goes in to the N connector connecting with the camera Blue and white.

Housing Earth goes around the screw in the camera part.

Done that should work fine and you can keep the switch on permanently and the lights can be activated manually or motion will pick it up.

Ring seriously need to update their installation videos as this was a pain without the help of this thread.